Hey guys, welcome back to Morimoto Lighting. Bear Dellinger here, and today we are diving into a full Morimoto 4Banger LED pod install on the 2019+ Jeep Wrangler JL using the A-Pillar mounting kit. We tested these pods, we walked through every step of the wiring, and we mounted them up on the A-pillar so you can see exactly what this project takes. Before we grab the T40 and start pulling cowl bolts, let me break down why the 4Banger is one of the best pod lights on the market today, and then we will get straight into the install.
Why the Morimoto 4Banger Stands Out
The 4Banger comes in two different levels. The entry level version uses a Nichia chip, and we call this the NCS version. Then there is the premium level, built for the off-roading crowd and truly the top dog of pod lights. That application uses the Osram chip, and we call it the HXB or the HX Boost. Once you decide what application level you want, you then move on to what driving pattern fits your needs.
When you are shopping, you will find options like the Morimoto 4Banger NCS Wide Beam pods alongside the premium 4Banger HXB Wide Beam LED pods. Both share the same driving beam pattern in the wide configuration, so the difference is chip technology and overall intensity rather than beam shape.
Three Beam Patterns to Choose From
We offer three different patterns: spot, wide, and combo. All three patterns come in amber or white. With our wide pattern, many people are drawn to it to help increase night visibility and to use as a fog light replacement. No matter if you choose the NCS or the HX Boost pod light, you will experience the same wide driving beam pattern.
The combo beam pattern is a super cool spot beam with a little bit more fill. It still stacks up to the competition very well. Then there is the spot beam pattern, an incredibly bright beam that is tight and looks like a square. That square shape is done on purpose, because at Morimoto we know a thing or two about beam patterns.
White vs. Amber Output
All three patterns come in either white or amber, but one thing to note is that your light output will be a little bit less with the yellow lenses. On the higher end, the HXB uses the Osram chip, but it does not come in yellow. The white light has to pass through the yellow lens, losing about 30 percent of its brightness. It is still an incredible option, just something to keep in mind.
Something neat about the entry level NCS is that those Nichia chips do come in a yellow option. Having a yellow light pass through a yellow lens means it does not lose as much output, so the light output is closely matched to that of the white counterpart. If amber is a priority for you, the NCS yellow chip is a smart way to keep brightness up.
Footprint and Fitment
The overall footprint of the 4Banger is approximately 30 percent smaller than alternatives that offer comparable performance. This allows for unbeatable fitment when paired with Morimoto’s fog light or A-pillar mounting kits. That smaller size is a big deal when you are trying to package four pods on tight A-pillar brackets without crowding the windshield or the hood line.
For this JL, we are using the 4Banger A-Pillar Ditch Light System for the JL, which includes the brackets, spacers, and extended bolts you need. If you prefer to shop the same kit elsewhere, you can also find Headlight Revolution’s 4Banger A-Pillar bracket kit. And if you would rather replace your fog lights instead of running ditch lights, take a look at The Retrofit Source’s 4Banger fog light kit for the JL.
Street Legal Considerations
With a standard and negative three degree aim, the beam pattern produced by the NCS wide beam model is designed to be compliant with the latest SAE F3 regulations for use as a street legal fog light. The HXB wide beam has a very similar beam pattern, but it puts out too much intensity to be considered a street legal fog light. If road legal fog use matters to you, the NCS wide beam is the version to pick. And to top it all off, the Morimoto 4Bangers are backed by a limited lifetime warranty.
Morimoto 4Banger LED Pod Install on the JL A-Pillar
Enough talking about the product. Let’s get straight into the install. This is a straightforward job with basic hand tools, and we will walk you through it step by step.
Step 1: Remove the Side Cowl Bolts
First things first, you are going to remove the four bolts on each side cowl. You will be using a T40 for this. Once the bolts are out, the side piece slides right out, so set it aside. With both side cowls removed, go ahead and pop the hood so you can start running the wiring harness.
Step 2: Mount the Relay Vertically
The first thing we mount is the relay. When mounting this, make sure it is vertical so there is no water intrusion later on after it is fully installed. We mounted ours right where the ground area is, and we simply used zip ties. Mounting location is your preference, so if you want to bore out a hole and put it in a different spot, you totally can.
Step 3: Tap Into the AUX4 Wire
Now locate your AUX wires. They are going to be on the very side where your battery is. Unravel the tape around the harness, and it will reveal four different wires. We are going to be tapping into AUX4. If you want, refer to your owner’s manual to figure out what all the other wires are for. Once you have located the wire, use your wire strippers on the OEM part of the harness, then use a waterproof butt connector. Slide the OEM wire straight in and clamp that side down.
Next, take your OEM Morimoto harness and slide it into the opposite side of the butt connector, then clamp that side down as well. Once everything is plugged into the OEM AUX harness, wrap up the tape and tuck it back in nicely while keeping the butt connector exposed.
Step 4: Connect the Switch Harness
Now we move on to the switch harness. When you receive your harness, it already comes with a Morimoto switch. Since we are using the OEM AUX on the JL, we are going to disconnect that switch. Just loosen the barrel connector and it slides right off. Then take the harness you connected into your AUX area and connect it to the Morimoto harness. Make sure these are tightened down well so they are fully waterproof.
Step 5: Route the Harnesses to Each Pod
Now route the harness to your 4Bangers. We are using light number two for the passenger side pod. Take the harness and find the rubber grommet piece that keeps water out of your engine bay. Lift that up a smidge, then route the harness up toward where your 4Banger is going to sit.
For the driver’s side, we are using light number one. The 4Banger kit includes an extension harness, so plug that in and route it over to the driver’s side, up through that styrofoam piece just like you did on the passenger side. There will be some excess wire, but that is okay because you can tuck it later. Zip ties or tucking the harness under the cowl is all up to your preference.
Step 6: Assemble the Pod to the U-Bracket
Before we mount the Morimoto A-pillar bracket, we mount the 4Banger onto it first. Take the bolt that comes with your U-bracket and make sure the U-bracket is facing forward. Add the included washer, then the nut. There is no need to fully tighten this yet, but when you do you will use a 17 wrench.
Slide your 4Banger and line it up with the holes on the side of the U-bracket. Use the screws provided with the kit and tighten them down with a T30. These side screws also help you adjust the vertical angle of your 4Banger. Once the bracket and pod are installed together, plug it up to your Morimoto harness.
Step 7: Reinstall the Cowl With Spacers and Extended Bolts
Now you can reinstall your side cowl. You might find it easier to remove the antenna to give yourself a little more clearance when reinstalling the side marker cowl, so just be very careful sliding it back into place. Once it is in place, take the black Morimoto spacers that come with your kit and put them on the very base of the A-pillar mount. Then take the extended long bolts and install them where the OEM bolts were, tightening them down. On the very side of your cowl, use your OEM bolts and tighten those as well.
Step 8: Reconnect the Battery and Test
Lastly, connect the battery. Loosen the positive and negative bolts on each side, slide the two terminals down, and tighten them back up. A really cool feature about the JL body types with the AUX option is that you can go into settings, click on AUX switches, and select your power source. Since we routed the 4Bangers on AUX4, you can choose battery or ignition. On battery, clicking AUX4 turns the pods on directly, while ignition only allows them to run when the key is on. We kept ours on battery, and just like that our 4Bangers are shining nice and bright.
That is how easy it is to install the Morimoto 4Bangers on your JL A-pillars. If you want to know what else we have for your body style, head over to our website, punch in your year, make, and model, and see what we have in store for you.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between the NCS and HXB 4Banger pod lights?
The NCS is the entry level version using a Nichia chip, while the HXB, also called HX Boost, is the premium version using an Osram chip and is described as the top dog of pod lights.
What beam patterns are available for the Morimoto 4Banger?
There are three beam patterns to choose from: a wide pattern for increased night visibility and fog light replacement, a combo pattern that is a spot beam with extra fill, and a tight square shaped spot beam pattern.
Does the amber lens reduce brightness on the 4Banger pods?
Yes, all three beam patterns come in white or amber, but the yellow lens reduces output. On the HXB, white light passing through the yellow lens loses about 30 percent brightness, while the NCS yellow chip option loses less output since yellow light passes through a yellow lens.
Is the 4Banger legal to use as a fog light replacement?
The NCS wide beam pattern is designed to be compliant with the latest SAE F3 regulations for a street legal fog light, while the HXB wide beam has a similar pattern but too much intensity to be considered street legal.
How is the wiring routed for the A-pillar install on the JL?
The relay is mounted vertically to avoid water intrusion, the harness taps into the AUX4 wire near the battery using a waterproof butt connector, and the Morimoto switch harness connects to the OEM AUX harness before routing to each pod light at the A-pillar.
Meet the Experts Behind Morimoto
Jimmy Nguyen – Engineering Manager
Jimmy leads engineering at Morimoto, bringing experience across customer support, supplier management, design engineering, and validation testing. His work ensures Morimoto lighting systems are engineered for real-world reliability and long-term performance.
Mike Hicks – Quality Control Manager
Mike oversees quality assurance at Morimoto, with a background spanning returns testing, RMA analysis, vendor quality control, and manufacturer scorecards. His focus is continuous improvement and accountability across the product lifecycle.
